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When you need a tow vehicle... GO BIG!
10/23/2010:
We were needing a tow vehicle to pull one of the show cars out
to Las Vegas. We needed a big truck to do the job and had searched
around using Ebay and Autotrader. No need to buy new, because
with this economy who can really afford it. Plus, we were looking
at diesel trucks for the huge torque abilities of the motors.
Diesel engines are hardly broke in at 50K miles, so it didn't
have to be new. We looked at Chevy's and Ford's, but settled on
a Dodge Ram series due to the Cummins motor.
Now, we really just needed something that could pull 7K lbs,
but why just get the minimum? We started looking for a 3500, then
Dually. Sure, why not? Leg room, heck yes it's going to be a long
trip. So, the final search was for a 3500 Diesel Mega Cab Dually.
Wait, what if we have to go somewhere off-road when the zombie
outbreak happens? Ok, add in 4x4 and we're set. That will definitely
get the job done and save our butts when the undead walk again.
Finding one in good shape proved to be a little difficult. Seems
most have that dreaded ball hitch in the middle of the bed and
you just know it's most likely been used hard. The few we found
locally had been roughed up on the farm or on a work site. Not
that it's a bad thing, as that's what they are meant for, but
we were hoping for something a bit more virgin. We got lucky on
the way back from a dealer Sherman and found ours at Dodge City
in McKinney. The sales guy Lou stayed late for us and we drove
it home Saturday night.
10/24/2010:
Come daylight the inspection begins and nothing was overlooked.
The bad was minimal and the good was this one had never seen a
gooseneck hitch. Only bumper pull only, if ever really used. This
is great we found a toy hauler that was status only and never
abused. Everything was great till the dreaded heated decision
of manual veruses automatic. See this Ram is manual. I myself
have always had manual cars and auto trucks, so I was hesitating
on this. Automatic is so much easier when towing. Yes, I know
the arguements for stick and truthfully it came down to the following.
Blow up an Automatic transmission and it's an expensive fix. Toast
a clutch, well that sucks but it's not going to break the bank
to fix it.
That decided we made the arrangements with the dealer to get
some minor things checked out and fixed, while they got all the
paperwork in order.
10/27/2010:
She's ours now!
10/28/2010:
First thing is we have pull a 2100 lb trailer with a 4100 lb car
almost 1200 miles. Some of it up and down steep grades, that means
we are going to need a brake booster for the electric trailer
brakes. We prefer to use Tekonsha and they have a new Prodigy
P2 controller. Now the easy way is just to get the wiring
harness adapter, plug and play the easy way.
Also, some of us aren't 6.5 feet tall and our short legs are
having a bit of trouble getting in. It's a big step in. That's
an easy solve with some step bars. Now, there are a lot of choices
when it comes to step bars, nerf bars, or running boards. However,
you want to call them. You've got Chrome, Black and Stainless
steel. There is also, 3 inch diameter or 4 inch, there is 4 inch
oval or 5 inch oval. Cab length or Wheel to Wheel. I've always
looked at it like this, how do you make a sandwich compared to
someone else.
I've chosen to keep it simple: Promaxx
3 inch round cab length in stainless steel. That will allow everyone
to get in with some ease and keep it inexpensive. Also, Chrome
and black can chip. Black can be repainted, but if it's stainless
then no rust or retouch.
Summary:
- Total Mileage at time of purchase: 88,124
- Came with BF
Goodrich All Terrain T/A LT265/70R17 (Oops,
there is an issue see 01/21/2011)
- Bed already has a LineX liner in it.
- Has Dee
Zee Diamond Plate caps on the bed
- 4 Pin already in place for the small trailer, comes with
7 pin.
11/10/2010:
The fuel door that is aftermarket on the vehicle, has some chipping
and flaking to the chrome, so we are going to replace it with
an Allsales fuel door and add a locking option ALS6041CL.
Also, this truck came already with Putco Door
Handle Covers and Tail
Handle Cover.
11/12/2010:
Was talking with one of our vendors who had his Trailblazer SS
stolen a few weeks ago. He just replaced it with a Chevy Silverado
2500 Diesel. I told him about my new truck and we started talking
diesel. He told me about the DPF deletes and programmers, which
he's already done on his. Night and Day difference. Emissions
legal not really (check your state), but the DPF retricts the
system so you burn more fuel which adds more CO2, so if I burn
less fuel I add less CO2 which is greener. Hmmm, I think the DPF
needs to be removed. I would rather get better mileage. So soon
we'll add a Flo-Pro exhaust to it part # FLPSS636
With that we need to add a programmer that adjusts for the DPF
delete, so include one H&S Mini Max part HNS109003.
11/13/2010:
Future modification when the brakes are finished. I've got about
3mm left on the fronts and I'm going to try some SP Performance
rotors with the reboxed Hawk pads. Part numbers SPP53012F
for the front, SPP53011F
for the rear, and the pads are front SPPMD965
and rear SPPMD702A
11/24/2010:
Ok, so I've poked around the forums and did some research. There
appears to be only three programmers common to Dodge guys that
work with a DPF delete. The Mads Smarty,
H&S Black
Maxx and the Edge Juice
W/ Attitude CTS Race. I found out the the Black Maxx is built
on the core of a Bully Dog system, which is a good product. I
thought, that I would try the Edge, as it comes with a turbo timer
and option for backup camera. I'm just waiting for it to come
in next week and I'll pick up a Flowpro DPF delete pipe part #
27113
instead of an exhaust system, as I'm debating on installing stacks.
11/27/2010:
Went to the shop today and took apart the air intake system up
to the turbo. I'm thinking of building a custom intake instead
of an off the shelf one. We have some Spectre parts that were
used on the Camaro till using an SLP Cold Air kit on it. These
parts are 4 inch modular pieces. I think with a couple more I
can fab an intake together instead of using a K&N,
Airaid
or AFE.
Well, the more I thought about it and looked at it. I realized
that I was going to fabricate something to make the MAF sensor
and air sensor fit it really, which isn't going to be worth the
trouble, nor would it save money. I'll just use an off the shelf
kit.
12/01/2010 in front of the shop.
12/01/2010:
The Edge Racing Juice 31305
showed up today. Definitely excited about installing it.
12/04/2010:
Started the installation of the Edge
Juice at noon today in the driveway. The firewall rubber grommet
just pops out, so it's easy to remove and at the end of the install
you just cut a slice it to tuck the cables into and replace. When
connecting the turbo timer I found it easiest to not only remove
the panel but the metal kick plate as well. Ran the wire for it
down through the plastic ring that held other wiring. By 1pm had
gotten up to the Pyrometer install and started having some difficulties.
Basically, the cordless drill I was using was too big for the
area. Had to switch out to a smalller one. Also, double and triple
checked the location before tapping a pilot hole, which of course
then the 1/8 drill bit snapped. Finally got the hole done at about
4pm and said to heck with it, as over the course of those 3 hours
I had been interrupted a few times by the wife, in-laws and kids
since I wasn't doing anything important.
Some people recommend running the motor during the final drill
through to keep the shaving out of the manifold and from entering
the turbo. Be sure to wear safety glasses if you try it. I did
it with the motor off, if your careful and cleaning away the shavings
while drilling then you won't get but a few inside. Canned air
is a good way. Those small leftovers can past through or you can
use a magentic wand to try to remove them.
12/05/2010:
Began tapping the threads for the Pyrometer. Never did this kind
of installation before and it's a pain in the arse. Threading
a hole, by hand at an awkard angle is killer. After two hours
and little headway I gave up. Hand, wrist and shoulder were sore.
I did more research and asked questions on the online forum. See
your supposed to do this by hand, so as not to muck up the threads
your cutting and put less wear on the threading tap. Well, with
the angle while trying to use a ratchet is difficult. Most people
I found out end up using a power or air drill and then do the
rest by hand once it starts to bite.
12/08/2010:
Two days of "No way am I working on it in they dark and cold
once I get home", resulted in having to leave work early
to get it running. The wife wants to park her car in the garage,
which I was blocking entry too. It's wired and it runs, but haven't
finished installing the Pyrometer or the DPF delete pipe. At least
the weather was better. I'll take it to work tomorrow and finish
the rest there on break or after work.
12/09/2010:
Ok, finished up the threading in 20 minutes thanks to the cordless
drill. Installed the pyrometer and started looking into removing
the DPF. There are the three sensor locations for the replacement
sensors. Before Cat, after Cat/before DPF and last one after DPF.
The H&S programmer I'm told just shuts these sensors off and
bypasses them, so you do not have to use the replacements. There
are two long pipes that are connected before and after the DPF.
I found out these are connections for the Barometric Balance sensors
which route up to the transmission. You disconnect them from the
tranny...... More to come later.
12/16/2010:
The O2 sensor just wont come out, so till I get a replacment to
put in, then DPF can stay put. Otherwise, I'm having a blast with
the Edge. Only taken it to 2 so far but a big difference in power.
I've also had people ask me on the forums about the mud flaps
and I've found that they aren't Mopar, but actually are Huskyliners.
Part # 57121
and part # 56071
for the front, but they don't work with the flares.
12/27/2010:
I just took a call on someone asking about what special conversion
needs to be done to run a standard diesel motor on bio-diesel.
About o-rings and other things leaking. I haven't heard of anything
except how a friend caused himself problems years ago running
homemade bio-diesel, so I had to read up on some of this to learn
more and thought I would share.
Here are links to Wiki's
information and the Government's
take on it. Basically, you can use B2 and B5 in a normal truck
and it doesn't void the warranty or cause problems. B20 and B100
require practiced modification of the fuel see an opinion here,
which is why it's use isn't covered by the manufacturer.
1. Bio-Diesel does require replacement of o-rings that are already
worn in older vehicles. You just need new ones and nothing special.
Mainly as the bio-diesel has more lubricate to it and can cause
leaks with worn rubber gaskets and o-rings.
2. Conversion kits are not needed, biodiesel can gelatinize and
we all know how hard it is to suck jello through a straw. The
conversion kits apparently just warm the fuel so it flows and
that's all.
3. Dirt and other particulates can be attracted to bio-diesel
and stick to the fuel and can gunk up the fuel filters, so till
you clean all the gunk out of your tank and lines you can stop
up fuel filters.
Remember Rudolf Diesel's engine ran on peanut oil.
12/29/2010:
Replacement grill shells are not the same as billet grill. I cannot
tell you how many people call or order a billet grill and then
are disappointed that they didn't get the shell with it. We get
calls on these a lot and we used to have a source for the shells,
but it dried up and dealers are expensive.
I know, that I have been needing a replacement for the Ram, as
the chrome is peeling and flaking off from rock chips. I was going
to just take it apart, sand and repaint using Krylon. However,
now thanks to us finding Paramount we have an option again. See
part PAR420347
for you Ram guys needing a replacement. Comes 4mm
or 8mm
bars or even vertical 4mm
& 8mm
or mesh.
01/20/2011:
Gas mileage, well fuel mileage I guess you might say. Anyway,
I've did the calculations and it's about 10 to 12 mpg towing (+7200lbs),
and about 14.3 to 16.3 mpg in the city/hwy. Some of that depends
on the setting and how I've been driving it. Remember I haven't
removed the DPF yet. O2 sensor is seized in the threads and I'm
going to have to replace it (5149263AA) when installing the bypass
pipe.
01/21/2011:
Those front tires really look small. It annoys me. Hmmm.... maybe
285/75R17's. Well, 2 hours of research later it seems I might
finally understand things. See the factory size is a 265/70/17,
which is what is on the truck at the moment. The problem is that
the BFG's are only making a load rating C anymore, they used to
make a E but that is not available and might be replaced with
the Rugged
Trail T/A of the same size. FYI, that is the stock size of
a Tundra.
More weight equals greater effort to stop and start, which will
hurt gas mileage in city. However, if you do more hauling, then
less revolutions per mile is what your looking for which reduces
rpms and saves fuel. That is why semi trucks run large 22.5 wheels
with tire diameters of 36.3 to 36.9. That gives them overall better
fuel mileage on a haul, but suffers in city stop/go traffic.
Here is a chart with some links I created to help out, if your
looking like I am to figure this all out.
Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Replacement Tire Options (Nitto
& BFG are only 2 options out of many)
Special Note: Dually tires cannot rub against each other in the
rear. That heat and friction will cause the tires to wear and
burst. Spacers are recommended in larger width tires.
Now, I know that there are conversions from to the 19.5, 22.5
and 24.5 semi wheels for all dually trucks. Yes, it looks cool,
but unless you are doing a lot of highway miles then fuel is going
to kill you. The mass and weight of these wheels are about twice
that of factory, which means your fuel mileage in city will drop
by half, but improve by the same maybe on the highway. The tire
wheel/tire setups are very expensive, yet pay off if you are racking
up the miles, as the tires will last you about 250,000 miles.
A normal set of tires last only for 30k to 50k miles.
02/20/2010:
Ok, finally got the replacement O2 sensor for the DPF filter part
# 5149263AA from Mopar yesterday. This morning was perfect to
start work on getting the Flo-Pro delete pipe part # FLPSS636.
The Barometric connections to the tranny had to be cut. I just
couldn't get them to come out. Its just rubber hosing and I will
plug them later. The DPF came off with little trouble. Had to
undo one of the muffler rubber hangers to get it to twist and
come free. Went to install the delete pipe and realized things
were not lining up as to hanger and sensor. Tried putting the
3 bolt bracket on the front of the lower catalytic and realized
the pipe replaces that lower catalytic, as well as the DPF filter.
Ok, unbolted the cat and dropped it out. However, I had no hardware
for the delete pipe, so a quick run to Lowe's and some 3/8-16
x 1-1/2 Hex Cap Stainless bolts, nuts and lock washers. Hillman
part # 8820201, 881772, and 882062. I get back and hang the pipe
up on the bracket next to the flange that it bolts too. Then slip
fit it into the extension pipe out from the muffler, which I had
to put back into place. I bolt up the delete pipe and plug in
the O2 sensor. Did my final check and was done. I'll post pictures
shortly. I fired it up to check and she sounds like the engine
is reving more freely, but of course. I've topped off the tank,
so to get mileage calculations.
If your state has emissions testing then this will make you fail.
It's for off-road use only, as it deletes part of the emission
system.
02/24/2010:
A surprise is showing up tomorrow. While waiting we had rain today
and it got me thinking the wipers were kind of toast on the truck.
I replaced one with a RainX Latitude (RAX5079280)
and the other with a PIAA Si-Tech (PIA97060).
This way I can find out which one is the better wiper, my bet
is on the PIAA. The Dodge Ram uses 24 inch blades on both Drivers
and Passenger sides.
03/01/2010:
Well, I've gotten the done the surprise mentioned before. The
truck now has twin stacks from Grand Rock/Powerflow on it. These
are 6 inch Chrome 6 Inch stacks GDRSA6-36SBC
and the install kit GDRDPU-6SK.
The install wasn't too difficult just remember measure twice and
cut once. The first step was a test fit of the y-pipe in the bed.
No trimming of the main slip pipe was necessary, as it could have
been to get the stacks to space off from the bed rails. I marked
out the where the hole was to be in the bed. Next was getting
the hole done as it would intersect with a cross member, so a
plasma torch was the easiest way to cut through the bed and the
cross brace. Cleaned it up some, but part of the Line-X was bubbled
up and we might need to make a plate to go around the area to
give it a cleaner look. The U bolt hangers were marked and installed
to carry the weight. Since one end of the U bolt ends inside the
cross piece we could only bolt one side. Next was the fit and
mounting of the stacks. That wasn't too difficult. Finally the
connection to the exhaust. We took the rear exhaust out from the
DPF pipe back and worked the exhaust off over the axle forward.
Then it was just a simple connection of the pipe coming down from
the bed to the exhaust system. Cleaned and tightened everything,
then fired her up. Sounds great!
03/06/2010:
The ride is getting on my nerves. The shocks in this feel every
groove and transmit it while boating up and down like a 66' Deville.
I think the shocks are worn out and needing to be replaced. Most
of the Dodge guys seem to like the Bilstein 5100's, so I'll get
some ordered in. BIL24-185776
and BIL24-191203
are the shocks. Maybe a BIL33-170794
as well, which is a steering stabilizer.
03/17/2010:
I've been reading up on chicken lights (running lights) on the
Cummins forum and have found some interesting installations. A
lot have mentioned the use of Recon lights, which used to get,
and for awhile didn't but we now have a distributor for them again.
I started poking around on their site and found REC26414X,
which is cool.
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03/17/2010:
Ok, we all know that if you have a dually then the front wheels
kick up a lot of rocks and other stuff which hits the flares or
step bars causing all sorts of chips and scratches. This ones
no different it has close to 100 small chips on each of the rear
flares mainly due to the angle. I'm thinking of Rhino/Line X on
the front under the body line to cover them up and avoid more.
Doesn't solve the step bars, so this weekend while at a trade
show starting talking with the rep for PowerFlow.
I was wanting a fitted one, but with the front Bushwacker
flares no options really exist. He suggested their Big Mudder
line of products. Part # PFL3103
seems to do the trick nicely. I'm going to add to the rear ones
to match. I need to re-secure the Huskyliners as they were installed
to good and are somewhat loose. I'll use the PFL3104
for the rear. Posting pictures in the next couple of days.
03/17/2010:
Time for new brakes. The squeal came back from when we bought
the truck and I was getting sick of it fast. I put on SP Performance
front rotors SPP53012F
and the pads are SPPMD965.
Not a hard or especially difficult install, but time consuming
and requires some brute strength. After removing the wheel there
are two bolts which hold the caliper to the carrier and then you
remove the two bolts for the carrier. Take off the hub extension.
You don't have to worry about removing the castle nut. Bang on
the rotor to loosen it from the seat. Clean some of the gray zinc
coating from where the pads will contact the rotor. It can make
the pads squeaky if left on. Install the new rotor, pads and reattach
the caliper. Remember to use some Loctite® 263™ Threadlocker on
reattaching the bolts. Don't need to over torque. A little clear
lube will get the pads on the clips easier and if you smear residue
on the back of the pads where it seats to the pistons it helps.
I also inspected the suspension and I believe it has the original
shocks still in place. Also, that has causes some bushing wear
to the end links on the sway bar and they need replacing. Maybe
Tuff Country 30927.
04/11/2010:
Intake arrived today. Decided to go with a AFE
part # 75-11342-1
and it works on both the 5.9L and 6.7L engines. Installing wasn't
difficult at all. Be sure to have the radiator bracket on the
bottom and not the top. I had to flip it around once I got the
box in place. Also, the easiest way to tighten the bolt/nut on
the fender side of the new air box is to loosen the fender liner.
No other way to really reach it otherwise. Use a open end of a
box wrench to hold the nut and ratchet with the other hand. Also,
before putting the air tube into place make sure to install the
crankcase breather tube along with the sensors. Remove it from
the factory tube by clipping the factory clamp off, nearest the
factory intake tube, this way you have the nib in place for inserting
into the gromment on the new tube. A little WD-40 on the inside
of the reinforced hose helps lube it to slip on the turbo inlet.
When you reconnect the sensors make sure you hear the MAF click
into place and lock it with the red tab. After that your done.
I've noticed a difference in the intake temperture already. It's
about 20 to 30 degrees cooler, than with the stock intake box.
I just filled up, so we'll see how it improves the fuel economy.
I've been getting 14 to 15 mpg, but that is a city/hwy combo.
If just highway, then I'm getting closer to 18 mpg. If you have
a 2WD, then I bet you can add about 3 to 4 mpg to those figures.
I've also found that I have the short air dam under the bumper.
Apparently there is a taller version and I'm thinking about swapping
it out, so less air turbulance under vehicle should help fuel
mileage.
11/21/2010:
We are thinking of selling the big beasty as we're just not using
it as much as planned. $28K is the asking price,
$27K without out the programmer, air intake, delete and stacks.
She has 102,700 miles and you can call and speak to Richard.
Either assume the loan or buy outright.
Taken just after we bought it.
Taken at the Hoover Dam.
Holiday Coupon from SFX: With Google Checkout get 10% off with
purchase of $400.00 (coupon code: dieselfreak)
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